Ho Chi Minh City
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Contents
Understand
[+] Get in
By plane
By bus
By train
[+] Get around
By taxi
By motorbike
By cyclo
By bus
Walking
[+] See
Religious sites
Do
Buy
[+] Eat
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
[+] Drink
Coffee shops
Bars and clubs
[+] Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
Get out
Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnamese: Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh), commonly known as Saigon or by the abbreviation HCMC, is the largest city in Vietnam and the former capital of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam).
Afternoon siesta, near Ben Thanh Market[edit] Understand
Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City on May 1st 1975. However, the old Saigon moniker is still very widely used by both Vietnamese and foreigners -- especially when referring to the most central part of the city, to which most tourists flock.
The helpful, squeaky clean Tourist Information Center (4G 4H Le Loi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Tel (84-8) 822 6033 ) can be found on the northeast corner of the roundabout at the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue, right in the heart of the city. It's a great place to pick up a free map (which includes a map of Hanoi, as well) and get an idea of what the city and surrounding area has to offer.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
Tan Son Nhat (IATA: SGN | ICAO: VVTS) is Vietnam's largest international airport. Immigration is notoriously strict and can be time consuming, but if your papers are in order you should be fine. Note that the all-white departure cards are only for those without the 'yellow paper' received upon arrival.
The recently introduced No. 152 air-con airport bus is the cheapest way into the city, and will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area, or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The price was recently increased to 3000 dong - still a bargain by any measure.
Taxis from the airport to the city centre take 30 minutes and cost US$3-5; make sure the driver uses the meter. However, if you want to avoid the trouble of bargaining and negotiating, you can just buy a "Taxi coupon" near the exit of the airport terminal for US$5.
You can change money at the airport, but you're probably better off paying for your first trip with US$ and exchanging in the city as the exchange in the airport may charge a commission as high as 3%.
Taxi drivers get commission for taking customers to certain hotels so when arriving at the airport be explicit about exactly which hotel you want to be taken to. This may be harder than expected if the hotel is one that doesn't pay commission.
When going to the airport, taxi drivers often attempt a scam involving an airport entry tax; it's their job to pay it. As of November 2006, international departure taxes should be included in the price of your ticket. Check with your airline before leaving, however, as some tickets (including any bought before the November 2006 change) do not include the tax, and you'll find yourself faced with a 240,000 dong suprise at the check-in counter.
[edit] By bus
The multitude of private tour company buses usually drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, giving easy access to accommodation in the backpacker area. Of course, this means that you'll have at least 40-odd people shopping for the same rooms, which can be daunting as the nearby spots get snapped up. Patience will reward those who dig deeper into the tiny alleys, which have a (suprisingly safe) life of their own.
Sinh Cafe, 246 De Tham St., also 24-26 Pho Duc Chinh St., District 1, ☎ 8367338 (sinhcafevietnam@hcm.vnn.vn, fax: 8369322), [1]. Open every day, 6:30am-11:00pm. The open-tour giant has two offices near Pham Ngu Lao.
[edit] By train
The train station is located on Cach Mang Thang Tam northwest of the city centre, and is a short taxi or public bus ride away from the main hotel districts.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By taxi
Taxis are the most comfortable way of getting around, and it's easy and safe to flag a taxi anywhere, anytime; but beware rigged meters that increase the fare too fast.
Carry small change and bills for paying fares, which are quite cheap at 12000 dong for the first 2km, plus 6000 dong per additional km. However, not all taxis are created equal: newer cars are more likely to have working air-con; larger mini-SUV-type models charge a higher rate.
[edit] By motorbike
Motorbikes (xe ôm) are plentiful, cheap, and can be either safe or dangerous. Absolutely agree on a price before you set off; short hops around town shouldn't be more than 10000 dong, and all the way to the airport around 30000. And if your stomach is a tight hard knot, don't hesitate to ask the driver to go a little slower.
You can rent your own motorbike in many places, especially around the backpacker area (Pham Ngu Lao) in District 1. Prices range from US$3-7/day; US$4 should get you a solid 100-110cc bike. Driving in large Vietnamese cities is for experienced drivers - the traffic is intense, and has its own rhythms and logic. Beware of thieves: always keep your motorbike in sight or parked with an attendant.
[edit] By cyclo
For many reasons, not least because of government attempts to restrict cyclos on busy urban streets, cyclos are disappearing. At around US$2/hour and because they are so slow, they can be a good choice for taking in the city - however in areas popular with tourists, they often try to overcharge, so bargain beforehand. They circulate around the central market and will immediately try to take you on a city tour the moment you are on board. Unless you fancy the novelty of a cyclo, a taxi will be quicker and just as cheap to anywhere you may want to go.
[edit] By bus
A big investment was recently made in public transit, and brand new bright green buses are everywhere - the tourist information office has route information. Cheaper and safer than many of the alternatives, the biggest problem is that when you get off the bus, you become a pedestrian (see below).
[edit] Walking
The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor markets are owned by the motorbikes, and not yet geared towards pedestrian traffic (although sidewalk clearing campaigns are now underway). Even though traffic is not as dense and chaotic as in, say, Bangkok, it's pretty scary for the average tourist. It consists mainly of motorcycles, (sometimes with up to five people including small children perched on them) and drivers tend to drive offensively (as opposed to defensively). Traffic flows in a continuous, noisy stream, and traffic signals appear to be largely "advisory". Crossing roads is therefore a challenge for Westerners used to traffic lights. The trick is to follow the Vietnamese - step confidently out into the road and cross at a slow but steady pace. Trust that the traffic will flow miraculously around you, and it (probably) will.
The traffic police occupy themselves with random roadside checks and do not bother the motorcyclists that are running red lights or driving on the sidewalks. The police recently announced a crackdown on pedestrians. This does NOT mean that they will hassle you; the most likely meaning of the crackdown is that you will be held responsible if you are involved in an accident.
[edit] See
The tank that ended the war, outside the Reunification Palace
Last call for South Vietnam, Reunification PalaceReunification Palace, Enter at 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St., ☎ 9693272. Open daily 7:30-11:00am, 1:00-4:00pm. Also known as Independence Palace. This is a restored five-floor time warp to the Sixties left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. Formerly South Vietnam's Presidential Palace, the war ended on April 30, 1975 when tank #843 — now parked on the lawn outside — crashed through the gate. Be sure to check out the impressively kitschy recreation room, featuring a circular sofa, and the eerie basement, full of vintage 1960s phones, radios, and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North took over. There is also a photo gallery and a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese lackeys and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh's indomitable revolutionary forces, upon which point the lackeys were forgiven and everyone lived happily ever after. Tours are available, but not necessary. There is a nice outdoor cafe on the grounds outside the palace. Entry 15,000 dong.
War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan Street, ☎ 9302112, 9306325, 9305587 (warrmhcm@gmail.com). Open daily 7:30am-12:00pm, 1:30-5:00pm, last admission 4:30pm. Formerly known under the perhaps-too-subtle moniker of Exhibition House of American War Crimes, the museum was opened in a hurry, less than five months after the fall of the South. It's currently housed in a rather confused assemblage of seven warehouses, with new purpose-built premises partially open for temporary and permanent exhibits. This disturbing display of man's cruelty during the Vietnam (American) War includes halls full of gruesome photographs, a simulated "tiger cage" prison and jars of deformed fetuses blamed on Agent Orange. (The comic relief provided by a display on the evils of American rock music has sadly disappeared.) There are, of course, no records of any unpleasant deeds ever having been committed by the North Vietnamese Army. Outside, there are helicopters, jets, tanks, and other bits of armament. It's only a block from the Reunification Palace — see the museum pamphlet for a map. Entry 10,000 dong.
On Le Quy Don, just south of the museum, is a 2000 dong/cone soft ice cream vendor, a happy treat in a hot and hectic city.
City Hall, end of Nguyen Hue Street. Originally called the Hôtel de Ville and now formally re-branded the People's Committee Hall, it's a striking cream and yellow French colonial building beautifully floodlit at night. No entry, but the statue of Uncle Ho in front is a very popular place for photos.
Museum of Vietnamese History, at the intersection of Le Duan Street and Nguyen Binh Khiem (just inside the zoo gates). The museum has a fine collection of Vietnamese antiquities, but unfortunately they are accompanied by signage which is both in poor English and full of risible Marxist distortions. Read up on Vietnamese history first or you'll have no idea what you're looking at. Outside, the Botanical Gardens are very nice and a good place for a cheap lunch away from the crowds. If you care about animal welfare, avoid the zoo.
[edit] Religious sites
Notre Dame Cathedral, Han Thuyen Street, facing down Dong Khoi (next to the Post Office). Closes for lunch and on weekends. A French-built Catholic cathedral in the city centre. Free entry.
There are several Chinese temples in Cholon, the Chinatown district of old Saigon. Only a few are listed here.
Incense, Thien Hau PagodaThien Hau Pagoda, 710 Nguyen Trai Street, Cholon. Dedicated to Lady Thien Hau, the sea goddess, who left two giant turtles to keep an eye on things in her absence. A festival is held in her honor on the 23rd day of the March lunar month. Don't miss the gorgeous sculptures in the walls of the courtyard outside the temple. Entry free.
Quan Am Pagoda, 12 Lao Tu, Cholon (Just off Hung Vuong, close to Thien Hau Pagoda). Open 8:00am-4:30pm. The oldest pagoda in town, home of a lot of incense and a cheerful puppy. Entry free.
Phung Son Tu Pagoda, 408 3 Thang 2 Blvd (On the outskirts of Cholon). Dedicated to the god of happiness and virtue. The pagoda itself is dusty and dwarfed by high-rises under construction nearby, but the small, sculpted grounds are a good place for a rest from the hectic city.
[edit] Do
If the heat starts to get you down, there are several water parks where you can splash around to cool off.
Dam Sen Water Park, 03 Hoa Binh, Ward 3, District 11, ☎ 858.8418, 865.3453 (damsenwaterpark@vnn.vn, fax: 858.8419), [2]. Mon-Sat 8:30am-6:00pm, Sundays and Holidays 8:00am-7:00pm. Close to the city center. Opened in 1999, with new water slides added each year — management promises the new Space Bowl Slide will make guests have "unforgettable new feelings". You'd be a fool to resist. Restaurant, health services, and animatronic dinosaurs are on the premises. Admission is height-based; under 0.8m free, others 35-70,000 dong.
Saigon Water Park, just north of the city in the Thu Duc District, appears to have been shuttered by greedy venture capitalists, but there's also Water World in District 9, Ocean Water Park in District 7, and Dai The Gioi Water Park in District 5.
The Saigon River isn't for swimming. The park in front of the Renaissance Hotel offers nice views of the river. Make sure you know how to cross the road before attempting to get there. Expect to encounter some beggars in the park.
Visiting hair salons is also a must do for tourists, as Vietnamese are famous for it. Hair wash, manicure and pedicure cost no more than US$10.
Vu Salon, 210, Tran Quang Khai, District 1. A nice place to go.
If you're in Saigon on a Sunday night, then beg, borrow, or rent a two-wheeled vehicle and join the throngs for di choi. It's basically a party on wheels, where everyone just rides through the downtown streets until the wee hours.
Galaxy Cinema at 116, Nguyen Du, District 1, is a favorite among locals and bored tourists. They show up-to-date movies on four screens.
[edit] Buy
Ben Thanh Market, west end of Le Loi. Probably the largest, offering a wide spread of, well, pretty much everything from Ho Chi Minh T-shirts to cosmetics, diapers, pickled plums and live ducks. Popular with tourists, so prepare to haggle (your luck may vary with this, as 'fixed' prices are being introduced).
Night Market (just outside of Ben Thanh Market). Here you can enjoy many kinds of different food and drink, and go round to do your shopping as well. Open from 5:00pm (when the Ben Thanh Market closes).
War Surplus Market, sometimes called the American Market, in Cholon. Dense warrens of stalls with old American military gear of indeterminate authenticity, cheap t-shirts, and electrical supplies.
Saigon Square, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Nguyen Du. Some of the former Russian Market stores have moved here. Very popular for hip, young people; you can find cheap watches, DVDs, T-shirts, jeans, shorts, slippers, etc, and there's a nice supper market in the middle of the square. Open 9:00am-7:00pm.
Tax Department Store, corner of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue. Formerly the Russian Market, this is now a rather sterile department store of sorts filled with stalls selling touristy kitsch, although the selections get better as you ascend the levels. There's a good supermarket on level 2. If you are traveling here by taxi, the new name may be met by blank expressions from taxi drivers. The old name seems to work.
[edit] Eat
You're spoiled for choice in Saigon, which offers the country's largest variety of Vietnamese and international food.
[edit] Budget
Food stalls are scattered all over the city, but there's a fair collection in the Ben Thanh market (see Buy).
Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Westernised options, and venturing a bit further into the side alleys can uncover some better choices than on the main streets.
Hue beef noodles at Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells Hue Food including Banh Beo, traditional rice cakes.
[edit] Mid-range
*"Hoa Mai Coffee (Come On!)" #43-45 Do Quang Dau Street #(08)-836-8310. Located in a fun, up and coming area, just off Phan Ngu Lao, between Phan Ngu Lao Street and Bui Vien Street. Nice, relaxed atmosphere with very reasonable prices and great international food and local dishes. Around US$2-$5 depending on what catches your eye on the menu. Try the fresh fruit shakes, and definately go for the Vietnamese style spring rolls. Sit and watch the bustle of the street go by in the comfortable bamboo chairs. Highly Recommend!
Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. A reliable if mildly touristy Vietnamese restaurant. Most dishes are in US$3-4 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the weekly specials.
Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large but busy Vietnamese restaurant featuring the best regional specialties from around the country in the US$2-3 range. Set in an atmospheric old French villa that's handy for Reunification Palace too. Has been enthusiastically recommended by The New York Times.
Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. On the third floor (keep going till you reach the roof, there's a restaurant inbetween the bottom floor ice cream parlor and this restaurant), this BBQ restaurant is dangerously delicious. Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers - you grill it yourself at your table. Around US$3-5 per person. Come with your fighting mitts on Friday and Saturday nights, everyone for themselves when it comes to grabbing a table. Go downstairs to the first floor after for some ice cream delights at Fanny's.
Ngoc Suong Marina,19C Le Quy Don, is a restaurant specializing in seafood. Try the fish salad and the clams cooked in white wine.
Chi Nghia, 53 Thu Khoa Huan, near Ben Thanh market, [3]. Small place specializing in Northern style Vietnamese cuisine. It's run by the chef/owner, who has 25 years of experience with Sofitel hotels, so her cooking and presentation is five star quality, but the prices are definitely reasonable. Entrees are US$2-5. Very clean, and nicely decorated.
LA SEN Restaurant (Nha Hang LA SEN), 30 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Phuong 6 - Quan 3. Phone 9306682 ( +84 8 9306682 ). Opening hours 09:30 - 23:00. Very nice and clean medium-priced restaurant serving delicious food from the regions (Hue, Saigon and Hanoi) of Vietnam just in the center of district 3. Friendly service, fully air-conditioned, two floors and with room for about 100 persons. Suitable for business and private lunch / dinner.
[edit] Splurge
L'En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in a area not normally associated with high dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong. Open 17:00-midnight,
Tân Nam, 60-62 Dong Du, Q.1 (a few doors down from Sheraton Saigon). The ground floor is open-air, the upper floor is air-con. Rather expensive and mediocre food, around US$10/person but they will park your motorcycle while you eat, and wander around the waterfront.
Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (first floor, with an ice cream parlour below) has a 1930's ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area sections. The food is fair but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.
[edit] Drink
[edit] Coffee shops
A cup of immensely strong black Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar or condensed milk), cà phê sữa nóng, in a traditional Vietnamese café is an absolute must when in Saigon. The coffee is actually brewed in a little metal apparatus placed on your cup; just lift it off when it has cooled enough to touch (and hence drink). During summer months, the combination of high humidity and temperature may tempt tourists to try iced Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar and/or condensed milk), cà phê sữa đá.
Avoid beverages containing actual ice, though, since the ice may have been created from local, impure water sources.
Trung Nguyen [4] is the Vietnamese version of Starbucks, but with much better coffee. Figure on 10000 dong for a basic cuppa, although there are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.
Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel) is more in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.
Hideaway Café, 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q.3 - as it's name implies, this place is hidden away and a good place to read, or have a quiet conversation or meal. Decent Western menu, although slightly pricey, is good. Free wi-fi.
Sozo has two locations, including one in Pham Ngu Lao. Prices are reasonable, wi-fi is free, and all proceeds benefit needy Vietnamese families.
Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex - quiet ambiance with views of the park.
Chot Nho Cafe 189, Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District. Reasonable price, good menu. 10 minutes by taxi from main city centre. Wi-fi is free.
Poppy Cafe 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3. Modern lounge cafe where the specialty is fruit-topped natural frozen yogurt. The only cafe in SG that serves this refreshing healthy treat. Creative fruit smoothies and light Vietnamese + Western fares also on menu. Free Wi-fi, flat-screen TVs, and English-speaking staff. [5]
M-Comic 99B vo thi sau a, a rather hard to find coffee shop. Upstair is like a bedroom with a couple of bed for costumer to lied on and some table. Arrived early if u want to occupied the bed. It has large selection of magazine and comic book to chose from. The price is fairly cheap, ranging from 11,000 to 30,000 Dong. But only served vietnamese drink, and the staff barly speak english. Has free wifi.
[edit] Bars and clubs
Saigon has plenty of places to drink, although to a certain degree Vietnamese and foreigners hang out in different places; however this is slowly changing as Westerners become more familiar with the ways of the East.
Allez Boo, corner Pham Ngu Lao, De Tham. The definitive backpacker bar. Full to the brim with the just-off-the-boat/plane/bus crowd, but none the worse for it. Always busy and sometimes a good night out, although not cheap for the area. Stick to beer (which is cheap and available in large sizes), the mixed drinks are expensive and surprisingly weak.
Apocalypse Now, 2C Thi Sach. Legendary and still packed on weekends, although aside from a few movie references it's not all that much to look at. Stays open late.
Bottom Line, Ly Thu Trung. Cubby hole for the lost and lonely. Good sports coverage, OK food, and pleasant attractive staff.
Carmen, 8, Ly Thu Trung. Fantastic latin music playing band. Drinks pricing on the upside though.
Catwalk, at the side of New World Hotel. All in one place with a massage parlour, disco, KTV and a mini casino. Price is on the expensive side but it is a sight to behold.
163 Cyclo Bar, 163 Pham Ngu Lao St. Thumping music until 2 a.m. and really friendly staff. Located 2 doors down from the Duna Hotel. The Vietnamese girls seem to have a strong affinity for caucasian men in this bar as every white male was accompanied by an asian girl.
Eden, De Tham Street. Often busy, full of sporties, revellers, expats and others. Dark and deep and reasonably priced for the backpacker main drag.
Heart Of Darkness [6], 17b Le Thanh Ton. Based on the Cambodian equivalent, this is a friendly mid-range bar. Broadly a dance-centric "teacher-friendly" expat bar, but plays to all-comers.
Ice Blue, Dong Khoi. Downtown English pub, complete with darts board and warm beer (if you want it that way!). Friendly, but shuts at midnight.
Juice, claims to be Saigon's first juice bar (of course it wasn't, there were many local places before - but maybe it was the first Western-managed one). Food slipped recently, but still a nice place to hang out. Has wi-fi.
Level 23, Sheraton Saigon 23F. The latest on the 5-star hotel drinking scene, with separate bar and nightclub, and great views over the city. A little soulless though, and very pricey with most drinks 80000 dong.
Lush, Ly Tu Trong. Vietnam's first half-way decent night club. Hugely expensive, but musically about as good as it gets in this part of the world. Mixed crowd (Vietnamese, tourists and expats), pretty good food - but no dance floor. Lots of billiards/pool tables out back.
Metallic Bar, 41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, District 3. House band plays covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and other popular rock bands nightly between 9pm and midnight.
Napoli, Pham Ngoc Tach. Located in a villa on the first floor (above an ice cream parlour). Good live music with a mixture of Vietnamese and English songs. The resident band must predate the reunification as they know all the old songs.
Oblivion, Bui Vien. Late night venue with lots of character, claims to be Saigon's premier music bar and it's hard to argue - assuming, that is, you have a taste for non-chart buzzy British guitar and obscure dark US/European stuff. You have to ask for happy pop, though if you're spending enough it'll sometimes get an outing. Like most Saigon bars, it attracts its share of working girls. If you're not interested, simply say you're not and you'll be left alone.
Polo, Ham Nghi Street (above the Liberty Hotel). Mixture of expats and locals, starts getting busy quite early. Reasonably priced food and drink, good music spanning from the Eighties to the present.
Saigon Pho, this little hole in the wall is only a stone's throw from Allez Boo, but much more expat orientated. Open late.
Saigon Saigon, Caravelle Hotel 9F, 12-13 Lam Son Square. A pleasant bar for a nightcap with good views; but get there early if you want to avoid the execrable house band.
Shadow Bar, 41 Dong Du Street. Expat bar, good place to wind down or up. Recently moved premises from 56 Mac Thi Buoi Street.
The Tavern SB8-1 My Khanh 2 (H4-2) Nguyen Van Linh, Saigon South (Phu My Hung) tel: 4120866. Great place to enjoy a cold beer or a great "Western" meal - favourite dishes are fish'n'chips & bangers'n'mash. Reasonable prices and nice, friendly staff and management. Opens for breakfast, closes at midnight.
Underground - more a food than a drink spot, though open for both. Sometimes busy with the business crowd, always packed with people enjoying the reasonably priced burgers, steaks and the like.
Peaches Saigon South (Phu My Hung) . Great place to enjoy a few drinks with friends. Friendly staff, great food!!
[edit] Sleep
There are plenty of nice and cheap hotels available for tourists and also the high end names like Sheraton for the "business class" people. Do take note (especially lonely male travellers) that most hotels do not allow you to bring back a local female companion to stay overnight. Only exemptions are those seedier hotels mainly used for "other" businesses.
[edit] Budget
Pham Ngu Lao in District 1 is the main backpacker hangout, just a short walk (10-15 minutes) from Ben Thanh Market. The lanes and alleys in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are jammed with 5-10 room mini-hotels offering prices around US$6. Don't be dismayed if every place seems full, you can be assured that vacancy is virtually unlimited at this price. Keep heading southwest away from the backpacker hustle closer Ng Thai Hoc, you'll likely find that as the alleys get smaller the rooms get quiter and owners more friendly.
Duna Hotel, 167 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8373 699 [7]. Rooms range from $12 for a single room with no window to $30 for a triple with a window facing the street. All rooms have A/C, satellite TV, a fridge and are very clean for the price. The staff is pleasant and there is an elevator. The only complaint is that the front door is locked early (around 11 or 12pm) and to get back in you must bang loud enough on the shutter door so that the staff sleeping inside can wake up and let you in.
Hotel Bi Saigon, 185/26 Pham Ngu Lao (in alley #185) tel: 8360678 [8]. Not the cheapest hotel, with a "Superior" room for two costing US$27, but clean, comfortable and terrific staff. In-room Internet access is just US$3/day (bring your own laptop). The lobby houses the La Table De Saigon restaurant, great food and a perfect place to get a snack before heading out on the town.
Nguyen Khang Hotel, 283/25 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8 373 566 nguyenkhanghotel@yahoo.com.vn - in a small alley that links Pham Ngu Lao and Do Quang Dau, along with several US$8-20 competitors of variable quality. This particular hotel has a nice vibe, kind staff, free Internet and free breakfast. Recently built (or remodeled), clean, tastefully simple in decoration, rooms have air-con, fan, 'fridge (and those at the front have nice large windows). US$15/day and under.
Rainbow Hotel, 283/5 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8360039. Large bright (albeit somewhat worn) rooms, and those at the front have a nice view. Good value at US$9 and under.
Thanh, 40/6 Bui Vien St., ☎ 8361924 (minhchau_2310@yahoo.com.vn). Bright, clean rooms in an alley around the corner from Pham Ngu Lao. Run by a friendly family. Rooms with hot water and satellite TV are US$10 per night.
[edit] Mid-range
The area around Ben Thanh market along Le Thanh Ton and Ly Tu Trong has many reasonably priced hotels with clean rooms in the US$25-35 bracket; some provide free wi-fi.
Ngoc Ha, 53, Le Anh Xuan. Close to Ben Thanh market and the New World Hotel. Clean and decent rooms, air-con, 'fridge, wi-fi in the lobby. Rooms US$25-35 including simple breakfast.
Y Thien, 247 Ly Tu Trong; tel: (84-8) 824 8176 . This full service hotel is 5 minutes from Ben Thanh Market and offers a range of rooms from tiny and windowless (yet functional) to quite nice with a full wall window overlooking the city and streets below (try the 4th floor room to the right of the elevator for US$20-25/night). Rooms are clean, bathrooms are large and recently upgraded (overkill on the shower remodeling). TV with cable, air-con, fan, 'fridge, elevator, all night guard for bikes, in hotel safe. If you don't want to stay in the backpacker area, and are willing to pay a little more, it's a good option.
Many of Saigon's historical hotels are in the hands of Saigontourist, the former state monopoly. Thanks to recent competition, service and facilities are adequate, although not quite up to modern standards; but if you want to experience a little colonial atmosphere, these remain far and away the best choices at the moment.
Continental Hotel, 132-134 Dong Khoi Street, [9]. A perfectly located old-school colonial hotel dating back to 1880 and the setting of Graham Greene's The Quiet American (but not, alas, its filmatization). Lovely breakfast garden, huge rooms, nice balcony views and only slightly expensive at US$60 and up (taxes, service, breakfast included). On the minus side, there is no pool, and traffic noise can be irritating.
Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, [10]. Ideally located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, next door to the People's Committee Hall. Another old standby, former haunt of the press corps and site of the daily news briefing during the Vietnam War. The 5th floor beer garden (Rooftop Garden) is famous and its symbol, the golden crown, is rotating again. Slightly more expensive at US$70 and up, but the rooms are very pleasant. There's a swimming pool on the roof and an excellent buffet breakfast.
Dong Do Hotel, 35 Mac Thi Buoi Street, District 1. Reasonable prices (around US$20-35), this new hotel offers you clean and comfortable rooms, good location where you can visit all the cool places in the center of Saigon.
[edit] Splurge
Luxury hotels are popping up faster than mushrooms in the monsoon rains. Expect to pay closer to US$200 a night for any of these.
Caravelle
Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, District 1 (central downtown), ☎ +84 8... (saigon.park@hyattintl.com), [11]. 5 star hotel with a collection of contemporary art and a variety of dining options including al fresco. Also host to a 20m pool and Xuan Spa.
New World Saigon Hotel. Recently renovated, a single bedroom suite on the Executive Floor is US$250 including butler service, unlimited food/snacks/drinks during the day, and lavish buffet-style happy hour in the Executive Floor lounge every night. The nightly all-you-can-eat seafood buffet in the Park View Coffee Shop for US$20 is fantastic. On the downside, the rooms can be noisy as the windows are single pane and there is a busy street outside.
Renaissance Riverside
Sheraton Saigon. Complete with Prada shop in the arcade.
Sofitel Plaza
Hotel Majestic. 4 star hotel in District 1, at the waterfront at the end of Dong Khoi Street. It got its start in 1925, and though it has undergone a number of renovations since, it maintains the same basic look outside. Nice but expensive rooftop bar serving mediocre ice cream and drinks. Offers a non-smoking wing for those tired of smoke.
[edit] Get out
Day-trips to the Cu Chi Tunnels are tirelessly flogged by travel agencies around Pham Ngu Lao. It can be done as a half-day trip, or as a full-day with a stop at Tay Ninh to see the Holy See of the Cao Dai religion. Tours, including admission, should cost US$4-6, and are available every day of the week.
Boat tours on the Mekong Delta can be done as short overnight trips, leisurely meanders over several nights, or anything in-between. Shop around to make sure you're getting the kind of trip you want — nobody can screw up a trip to Cu Chi all that badly, but itineraries for Mekong trips can vary quite a bit.
Mekong trips can end in a boat + bus to Phnom Penh in Cambodia, which will have you spendng a night in a cheap hotel in Chau Doc before making the trip over the border. Make sure visa support is included in the package, which should cost US$20-30.
Mui Ne is a popular beach resort not far from HCMC, about 4-6 hours by bus.
Vung Tau is a nearby city with great beaches, about 2 hours away by bus, or less by boat along the Saigon River
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Thứ Năm, 9 tháng 8, 2007
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